Tucked away in a South Island corner Doubtful Sound forms part of Fiordland National Park, a stunning place where a kayak is the perfect way to meet wildlife.

When adventure lures you from bed at the unmentionable hour of 7am for 11 hours cruising and kayaking Lake Manapouri and Doubtful Sound, it had better be something special.

And it is, so much so that UNESCO gave special recognition to this pristine wilderness area in 1990, with the formation of the Southwest New Zealand World Heritage Area.

Eleven hours on the go sounds a long time but this is not like boot camp. Quite the opposite as it really doesn’t matter if you don’t know the front of a kayak from the back. The launch does all the hard work taking you and the kayaks to explore the best spots, the wind always at your back.

Doubtful Sound is not accessible by road so a one and a half hour launch trip takes you to the end of the west arm of Lake Manapouri giving time to take in surreal views of morning mist clinging eerily to mountainsides.

A short 4-wheel drive journey to Wilmot Pass at 670 metres gives spectacular views before dropping down into Doubtful Sound.

It's now time to meet the infamous Fiordland sand flies who attach themselves to bare flesh with fierce tenacity. They lied when they said no skills are necessary for the trip. The ability to apply insect repellent fast will keep you sane.

Thankfully they hate the water so once on the launch sand flies are left behind. En route the guide instruct s on kayaking techniques and fits you out in polypropylene thermals, the sort of thing you wouldn't normally be seen dead in. Over the thermals goes a full wetsuit finished off with a wetsuit jacket.

At Shelter Cove two-man kayaks are unloaded for the first two-hour section paddling down the west side of the fiord to Ferguson and Elizabeth Islands and into Olphert Cove.

You learn quickly not to make destabilising movements and with a little practice it’s not difficult to paddle in rhythm with your partner. However ther are many distractions.

Watching shafts of sunlight pierce the clear water or staring up where tenacious plants cling to life on sheer rock faces, takes your mind off the mundane task of paddling.

Gliding in silence past a fur seal sunbathing lazily on a rock while hearing only the splash of paddles and song of bellbirds is about as good as it gets. That is until spotting native rata trees in deep crimson bloom and fish leaping from the water, flashing silver in the sunlight before diving back into New Zealand’s deepest fiord.

Algae hangs thick from waterfalls like velvet curtains. Waterfalls are common; some exist only after heavy rain and are so numerous many are nameless.

Trips go out rain or shine. In the rain waterfalls thunder off cliffs, their spray in sunlight creating splendid rainbows. Wet weather is considered as spectacular an experience as a clear sunny day.

Gliding along in a kayak gives a more up close experience than rumbling by in a launch. Kayaks can explore little nooks and crannies and move so quietly wildlife is not scared off.

Bottlenose dolphins are often seen and come really close leaping and playing around the kayaks before tiring of the game and swimming off. For the Fiordland Crested penguins September is the best time to visit.

How to Get There

Te Anau is two and a half hours drive from Queenstown.

Kayak Tours

• Small groups of eight or nine.
• No paddling experience necessary.
• Suitable for all ages 12-70 plus years and all fitness levels.
• Kayaking and safety gear including wetsuits and camera bags provided
• Overnight options available.

Accommodation

Te Anau, 20 minutes drive from Lake Manapouri has accommodation ranging from hotels, back-packers and camping grounds.

Visitor Information

Book tours at the Fiordland Visitor Centre, Lakefront Drive,

Te Anau. Ph. 64 3 479 9751, e-mail info@travellink.co.nz

Website: www.fiordlandnz.com