Cycling in Central Otago
Journey through a Remote Region in the South Island of New Zealand
An historic cycle ride through beautiful Central Otago reliving the glory days of the gold rush and the romance of rail travel.
Four days on a bike covering 150km is quite a mission but it’s worth it to experience the Otago Central rail trail in the deep south of the South Island of New Zealand.
The ride is not that hard as there are no steep hills. However you will brave spooky dark tunnels (bring a flashlight) cut through solid rock, ride across 68 bridges, see more sheep than you have ever seen in your life, as well as open and shut a few farm gates.
For 83 years the line was a vital link between the city of Dunedin and small villages scattered throughout the Otago gold fields.
Back then, in 1861, lust for gold enticed hopefuls in droves to Central Otago. Deserting work, home and families, many broke their hearts as well as their backs chasing dreams of fabulous wealth. The like of those days have not been seen since.
Finally, in 1990 the 150km stretch of line between Clyde and Middlemarch was closed for good.
The Department of Conservation bought the line, removed the original sleepers and laid a gravel track. In 1999 the line became a public reserve for cyclists, horse riders and walkers. Vehicles are prohibited on the rail trail.
At times the rail trail crosses the highway giving access to day-trippers. A 69 year old ex rail worker reminisced about those days on the railway, “Me and my workmates cried when the new diesel trains arrived to replace the old steam engines”, he said.
Back on the trail there’s plenty to see - gorges, orchards and farmland, open plains, pleasant rolling countryside, and spectacular mountains.
Dilapidated train stations, rusty rail wagons and information placards tell the story of rail, but it's the railway bridges that impress. The big ones are built on schist rock piers and abutments. They don’t make them like that anymore.
There are some cute towns along the way, ghost-like with run down buildings and others picturesque like Ranfurly. Both the information Centre and the Art Deco museum are worth a look. Restored and maintained by volunteers strong community spirit has made the Ranfurly Rural Art Deco weekend an annual event.
People are so friendly in these remote parts. When locals see visitors with their noses pressed against the window, they open the museum, and tell the stories of gold and rail.
All that exercise and hot sunny days make every pub a Mecca, but old country pubs with cottage gardens are hard to pass. The locally made cider at the Omakau Hotel tastes like nectar and goes well with warm sun on tired limbs.
At Oturehua the only change to the 1930’s style Gilchrist general store is the products on the shelves. A hardy stone building, typical of the region, it can tolerate extremes – Oturehua records New Zealand’s highest and lowest temperatures. Summer temperatures soar to 40°C while winter is cold enough for ice skating on the Idaburn dam.
How to Get There
The trail can be travelled in either direction - from Clyde at the Clyde railhead or from Middlemarch, 400m north of the railway station. Cyclists should allow 3-5 days and walkers 5-7 days. Mountain bikes can be rented from cycle outlets in Alexandra or Dunedin.
Cars can be stored at facilities in Dunedin or free at your accommodation.
Camping, backpackers, bed & breakfast, hotels and motels are available along the trail. Rail Trail maps and information is available at the Central Otago Visitor Information Centre, Alexandra or at the Dunedin Visitor Centre.
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